Day 5: Hakone

I've decided I like the bus drivers of Hakone. They be taciturn (why use a word when a grunt and a gesture will do?), but they also slow down for old ladies running to catch them, stop for the ones trying to cross the street (effectively halting traffic at the same time), wave to their compatriots and handle hairpin turns in the mountains with casual ease even as I'm clutching the rail of the seat in front of me.

I didn't think I'd get the chance to watch them in action after yesterday's hijincks, but fate would not be denied.

My day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast of soup, rice, fish and lots of other stuff that I'm not entirely sure what it was. I did get to try natto (fermented soy beans) for the first time. I've heard it is an acquired taste and as such it was not one that I have acquired yet.

From there it was back up the mountain to the rail station and across on a funicular, or cable car to the Lake Asashi area. This is where I might have had a chance to see Mt. Fuji, though she was shy today. Still, it was hard to resist the temptation of grabbing the nearest person and pointing off at a mountain and asking "Fuji-san?" It'd be like going to a Phillies game and approaching every white haired man with a paunch and asking "Charlie?"

The cable car took us up over the mountains and reminded me of the Skyline at Hershey Park, only on steroids. It was a very long way down. One of our views, however, was where they collected the hot spring water for the many onsens (baths) in the area. It was kind of depressing looking, a barren landscape spattered with yellow sulfur (which you could also smell) and lots of silver pipes and construction equiptment. Very different from the natural beauty that for the most part surrounded me for the rest of the day.

My Hakone Pass also provided me with free boarding on the cruise that ran the legnth of Lake Asashi. It is built like a corny pirate ship complete with a man dressed up as a pirate offering to take his picture with you (for 1000 Yen of course).

Aside from these memorable journeys, my day was spent on the hiking trails of the area enjoying the scenery and further killing my feet and knees. Lots of fun, but how often can you say you saw a tree and it was pretty? Wordsworth, I am not.

I once read a book that often mentioned the mantra: "Close your eyes, hope for the best, roll the dice." I've amended it during this journey to: "Decide, commit, pray"

My journey back across the mountains hit a snag when one of the cable cars had an accident and they had to shut down that part of the journey. My only way home (aside from a $70 taxi) was to get another bus. It was a long trip, but ended happily with me safe and ready for another enormous dinner.

Tomorrow, I head to Kyoto!