The Takayama that Wasn't and Tokyo

I'd like to say I'm still going strong, but truth be told, I sort of hit a wall in Takayama. A beautiful little town truly in touch with using its history as a way to revitalize its tourist industry, I had a list of things I wanted to do including Sake tasting and visiting the Hida Folk Village. What I ended up doing was spending a lot of time sleeping. My throat hurt and all I wanted to do was lay down and sleep.

My inn was another traditional style Japanese inn with futons, delicious (and large) meals and public baths. Very comfortable and very hospitable.

This morning I journeyed to Tokyo for my final night in Japan. I still can't believe it's over, and yet I also feel like I've always been here. I think after a time I get tired of being a tourist and just want to begin normal life again, wherever that might be. I flatter myself to think I've got an adventurous spirit, yet in the end, the one place I want to be is home. Little by little, the worries of home have started to intrude upon my thoughts.

Tomorrow, I've got the Ghibli Museum in the morning and then a few hours to do some last minute shopping before catching and afternoon bus for my evening flight out. The next time I post I'll be across the ocean.

Day 11: Osaka and the Tigers!

Day 11: Osaka I think of all the places that I've visited so far, Osaka is my favorite in terms of overall feel. This surprises me because it was also the grungiest, yet there was something charming about this city and its warm people.

I made it into Osaka safely despite weather misgivings and train delays over an hour (I managed to get on an earlier train that had arrived a little before mine was supposed to). I don't know if it was the weather or the holiday weekend that tied things up, but the Hiroshima train station was a mess. I was definitely happy to be out of there.

With time to spare before finding my hotel I visited Osaka Castle. A gorgeous eight story pagoda surrounded by high thick walls, the area seemed to be a favorite place to simply hang out. In the distance, I could hear an outdoor concert underway. How appropriate to be hiking up to a building that was centuries old (okay, so the main building is only from 1930's, but there's been a castle here since 1615).

The inside had been converted to a very modern looking museum chronicling the castle's place in locale history. What's interesting is how the Japanese describe war and violence in their history. It is quite all right for a warrior to throw himself against insurmountable odds, noble even, especially if that warrior had been chastised by the general earlier.

After the castle, I found my hotel, checked in, and then headed off for the baseball game. You can find some information about the Tigers at this link. You could almost draw a chart on the similarities between the Phillies and the Tigers, I thought.

My strategy was simple. I had directions to the park, however I also shamelessly followed any person wearing clothing promoting the Tigers. I think I freaked one couple out a little as they walked a little and then ducked back onto the same train we had just departed. Aside from that, I was happy to got with the crowd.

And the crowd led me straight to, not just the ballpark, but also into a nearby building that turned out to be a department store. It was like Black Friday on the day before a hurricane is supposed to strike. Especially the prepared foods section and the beer area. You could bring this stuff into the park? I nabbed a container of potato wedges and two cans of beer before heading off to find my seat.

Turns out, while you can bring in outside beer, you cannot bring in the cans or the bottles (what the people buying cases of beer did, I don't know). There were tables between the ticket booth and the stadium where attendants poured your beer into cups for you. Now double fisting, I found out I was trying to go in the wrong entrance. The stadium isn't all open on the inside and you have to choose your door carefully. So I schlepped around the outside (still double fisting) until I reached the rightfield door.

Rightfield is where the home team cheering sections sat and I'd decided that if I was going to do this, then I was doing it right. It took some searching but I finally found my seat. I swear the surrounding people all chorused "Amerika-jin?" when they saw me. Once the game started, though, I proved my Tigers loyalty! It also helped when I asked the woman behind me the pitcher's name. She provided a list of the players in Romaji (English letters) and I was now able to keep up.

The baystars went up to bat first, however it wasn't until the Tigers took the plate that I really got an eyeful. Enormous yellow flags came out, a man stood up on a podium in front of my section and started screaming, whistles and drums began to sound and the cheering began. Every player has their own cheer and my throat was soon hoarse from shouting.

Trouble began early, though, between two men near me. To my left sat a normally dressed man who was behaving a little oddly. Not quite comfortable in his seat, sometimes pretending to swing an imaginary bat. In front of us sat a yankee couple. Yankees are rather wild members of Japanese society. Rough around the edges, they're kind of like gang members (not yakuza, maybe hoodlums?). Anyways, something happened and soon the two were yelling at each other. The Yankee stood up and I didn't need a translator to know that he was saying "let's go!" A third man soon arrived and said some cooling words and the two sat again.

The problem with not knowing the language, however, is I didn't know which one was the crazy one. Was it the average looking man who was behaving erratically, or the delinquent? I slid one seat away from the whole thing until a family arrived forcing me back to my chair. Luckily, the man beside me left for a good portion of the game (to take his meds?). After that, the whole experience was far more enjoyable. The lady behind me was very nice, she loaned me her umbrella when it started to rain and pointed out when the pitcher was removed. And when the Tigers got a 3-run triple, the stadium exploded! Mr. Yankee was even friendly with me.

One surprising thing was the beer sellers here. They were all young girls dressed in what appeared to me to be something similar to girl scout uniforms complete with backpack. Inside the backpack, however, was a keg. These girls all acted very childishly, giggling and speaking in high pitched voices as they pulled beers for the spectators. It was really quite bizzare, though the idea of a keg instead of a tub of ice and bottles is pretty interesting.

Alas, at the top of the ninth it was time to head home. I stumbled my way to the train station and hesitantly asked one of the passengers if the train was headed to my station. He pointed to the seat next to him and grunted which could have either meant "yes", or "sit down white girl and find out." It turned out to be an affirmative grunt and an hour later I was blessedly asleep.

Tomorrow, I head to Takayama in the Japanese alps. I can't believe my trip is almost over!

Day 10: Miyajima

Miyajima is a small island that seems to have taken its role as a tourist destination in stride, right down to the actors dressed in plastic samurai armor who walk around for photo-ops (including one female in heels and a short skirt). The first two streets are devoted to souviner shops and food stands while further in are hiking trails and a ropeway.

The famous floating tori is best viewed at high tide, so my fist stop was to Itsukushima Shrine. The entire complex is built on stilts that are hidden when the tide comes in. Apparently this was so that anyone could visit the shrine without stepping on the sacred island.

After touring the little town, I found the Folklore and Historical Museum that proved as light on folklore as it did on English translations. From what I could gather, there was a battle behind the shrine in which 4,000 warriors defeated 20,000 through superior tactics. A Japanese drama (tv series) was created that depicted this event (or rather the winning general as I later found out) and half the museum's exhibits showed props and costumes.

Following this, I took the cable car up the mountain (mainly to get the full value of my 2 -day pass), and though murky looing weather had me coming down soon after, I was given the opportunity to chat with an Australian couple on the way up and two Japanese grandmothers on the way back down again. They really did tell me they were grandmothers. One had a daughter in the states. I met these ladies after one had saved a koi that had foundered on the rocky bank of his pond. They also gave me the japanese word for deer: Chika.

Back in town, I made a point of trying the island's specialty: Momiji Manju. Momiji Manju are cakes shapped like a maple leaf and contain various fillings. I stuck to the traditional sweet bean paste (Anko, I think it was called). Many of the shops have their machines positioned beside a glass window so one can watch the process before sampling a treat that is still warm from the griddles.

As I continued on, however, I stopped in my tracks at the sight of a very long line leading into a shop. My curiosity piqued, I discovered that they sold a very special kind of Momiji Manju. They were larger, on sticks and deep fried. Oh dear god, so delicious! I burned my mouth in my eagerness. This further proves that everything can be made better by being put on a stick and deep fried.

I spent the afternoon people watching on the pier. It was espeically interesting to watch them interact with the deer. Some had no hesitation (children were especially gifted at harassing them) while others were quite nervous.

Dinner again was a combination of delicousness and new experiences. My stomach is still heavy hours after my last bite! The threatening rain let up afterwards and was able to take a moonlit stroll along the water. The last ferry had long since gone and there were few out with me. I walked up toward the shrine complex again and was treated to the O-Tori again on the water and illuminated by powerful lights. I think it was during my tour of the Kyoto Palace that the guide mentioned that in China the color is red, which is considered lucky, while in Japan the color is orange as a symbol of the sun. All very interesting and very beautiful.

Mine host had mentioned a noh singer was performing tonight and while she said that tickets were impossible (a Japanese person giving a definite negative?! Very rare), I might be able to stand close to the stage and listen a little. The stage was also part of the shrine complex and I found I was not the only one standing at the edge of the bank across from the open air auditorium.

Noh is sort of like the Japanese version of European opera, though the sound is much different. Noh music is tready and had little music accompanying it. I could see the stage as the actors moved about in very deliberate movements, though I really had no idea what was going on. For this reason, I did not linger.

Back at my hotel, the young man stopped me on my way up to my room. He mentioned an approaching typhoon and seemed to be very kindly advising me to get the hell out of dodge. Perhaps an early morning departure would be prudent...

Tomorrow, I head to Osaka and the baseball game.

Day 9: Hiroshima/Miyajima

As I traveled on to Hiroshima, I noticed that Kyoto has a program called the Momo Challenge which encourages people to take the stairs rather than the elevator. As I climbed out of the subway, each step counted the calories burned in the ascent. So, I am proud to say that I burned about 12 calories...

Hiroshima is truly a bustling, modern city whose heart is a monument to the A-bomb devestation. Even though I came here on a weekend and the peace park was crowded, it was also very quiet. I moved from monument to monument, making sure to stop at the children's monument (with packed plastic lockers stuffed with countless colorful origami cranes), the peace light, and and Korean memorial. What I had not known was that about 10% of the 200,000 people who lost their lives on that August morning were Korean slaves, shipped across the water to work in the factories. The monument is relatively new, a sign of some of the tension that continues today (the children and grandchildren of these prisoners are still unable to attain Japanese citizenship).

Overlooking all of this was the dome. When the bomb fell on August 6, 1945, it left the shell of the prefectural hall. At the time, there was great debate about whether to let the remains stand or to tear them down. In the end, the decision was to keep it.

There are many elderly people in the parks and I can't help but wonder if they were here when the bomb fell.

At one end of the park lies the peace museum. Inside, it was interesting to see the before and after pictures of the city. The purpose of the museum is to depict the devastation of nuclear warfare in the hopes that such a weapon is never used again. One wall is covered with copies of letters of protest. The mayor of Hiroshima writes one to every country that performs a nuclear weapons test. The last three were to the US.

By the time I reached the end of the museum, where the science behind splitting the atom are explained, my brain was officially fried.

A short ferry ride later and I am on Miyajima, an island so sacred that women were not allowed on on it until the 1800s and even now peolple leave the island to have babies or to die so as not to pollute the land.

The first thing I see when stepping off the boat are deer. Tame deer roam the city looking for handouts. Despite the signs, some tourists oblige, while others lose pieces of their brochures and maps to the more agressive creatures. The children took great delight in chasing after the animals, grabbing tails and fistfulls of hair. I kept waiting for someone to get kicked or bitten but no deer on child mayhem occured during my stay.

My hotel was right along the pier, a small family run joint, mine host was a lovey lady who shared her establishment with her black cat: Kuro-chan (Kuro is japanese for black, while chan denotes either a child or pet). Kuro-chan is an elderly gentleman cat who regally accepted my fussing. He and mine host were still mourning his female companion who had recently passed away.

I took advantage of the good weather and went for a walk before dinner. Across the mountains behind me, thick, black clouds rolled through. As I turned around to return to the inn, the rain begain to fall. And me, of course, without an umbrella! I think I gave mine host a shock as she rushed out to me with an umbrella. But, it felt good to walk in the rain. There really is no sensation quite like it. I think it is good for the soul. Provided you are not headed to work, that is.

Upon climbing the stairs of my in, however, I realized that none of the doors were marked. And I couldn't remember which one was mine. I think I tried every single one before getting the right door. Luckily, no one else seemed to have arrived yet.

At dinner, it was one delicious dish after another either explained by mine host, or another employee who I began to think of as the young man. Sashimi, tempura, grilled oyster... all washed down with nama biru (draft beer). Yum! I am going to be one stuffed dumpling when they roll me back onto my plane.

Day 8: Kyoto

Today was the first day I actually slept through my alarm, it only took a week to get acclimated. My first stop was to the eastern edge of Kyoto where Kiyomizu-dera sits against the hill. It is a shinto shrine noted for two features: the first is a balcony that stretches out over a cliff. In the past, men would leap from it and should they survive, their wish would be granted. I think there was something like an 85% survival rate. Now, there is a guard to prevent any wouldbe wishers.

The second notable feature of Kiyomizu-dera is a stream that is divided into three waterfalls that each represent a different aspect that the drinker prays for. At the time, I didn't know which was which, so I chose the two outer streams. Apparently they represent wisdom and luck in love while the middle was longevity. I can live with that.

Although it was on my list of sites to see, I literally stumbled upon Jisho Shrine. A much smaller complex, it is devoted to the Japanese equivalent of Cupid. There are two stones here about 10 meters apart and if a person can travel from one to the other with their eyes closed, then they will soon find love. Should someone help them, then their love will come with assistance. There were too many people for me to attempt it though I did throw a coin into the box and rang the bell.

From here, I continued to the Kyoto Imperial Palace where you must register to join an English tour (passport and all). The tour took us around the outside of the buildings as our guid expained the history of the building, and how it was used. One interesting feature was the room where the emperor received visitors. It had a bamboo curtain that came down so a supplicant could not see him.

The tour may have been in English, but I might have been one of the only native English speakers there. Lots of Germans and French and one young Japanese lady who was using the opportunity to better her English. It made me realize just how lucky I am as a traveller.

After the tour, I schlepped back down Karasuma Street to the International Manga Museum. Shelves of Manga lined the walls, all waiting to be taken down and read. On nicer days, visitors can take them outside to the lawn.

The exhibits were interesting, especially one that explained the flow of money from consumer to artist by using a glass of wine. As a smaller museum, it was also clearly connected to the fan side of manga as well as the offical publishing angle with exhibits on copyright, doujinshi (fan-made comics) and cosplaying. However, the 800 Yen entrance fee was a little steep.

TOmorrow, I head for Hiroshima and Miyajima!

Day 7: Guided Kyoto

I met my guide: Ayako Kiyono, a young woman from Osaka. Osakans have a particular reputation in Japan as being warm and talkative and Kiyono-san was no different.

We began with a journey to the golden pavilion, or Kinkaku-ji. Built by a retired shogun, it reflected his ambition to become, not just emperor, but also akin to Buddha as well. The building itself is actually relatively new. In 1950, an apprentice monk had burned the original structure to the ground. After that, only supremely important people are permitted actually near the pavilion (the last being George Bush), everyone else can just admire it from a distance.

After that, we took a ride to the Gion district where the geisha roam. At 11am, the streets were empty but for delivery trucks, cleaners and us. The party doesn't start here until 5:40pm as the geisha make their way to their assignations. We did see one small group of Maiko, or apprentices and for the first time, I am starting to see ladies in kimonos (not just geisha). They look so elegant and yet at home among the modern city streets.

Ramen was for lunch today and this was not the 15 cent packages we are used to back home, but fresh noodles that were then grilled and served in a broth. Very hot, very tasty and very large! I've yet to see so called Japanese portions as every meal contains more food than I could eat.

Our final stop was south to tour a sake brewery and do some tasting. This brewery belonged to the Gekkeikan, which is one of the few brands to reach the US. Kiyono-san took me through the process and compared to wine, it seemed to be a hard and fast process. After the tour, I got to sample some sake, though with the crowd it was more like shooting it than savoring and analyzing the flavor. Hopefully I'll have a better experience in Takayama.

With some time to spare, we indulged in some Japanese shaved ice. Again, the serving was enormous. I had black sugar favor which was very sweet and molassesey. Tasty but again, so much!

I then took the opportunity to ask Kiyono-san for a favor. In Japan, one can buy event tickets at convenience stores on machines, including Baseball tickets. I am lucky enough to be in Osaka when the Hoshien Tigers play the Baystars. My guide book mentions the great food and shopping opportunities. All I want to do is watch a ball game (and the spectators). And now, with Kiyono-san's help, I can!

Tomorrow is a day on my own in Kyoto.

Day 6: Travelling to Kyoto

It might sound a little hussy-ish, but I like the code of anonymity that my fellow travelers and I seem to share. Once we sit down and start talking it's like there's a rule: no names, no personal information just reveling in the intoxicating moment of travel that we're both in. It's the same questions: where are you from? How long have you been in Japan? Where have you been? Where are you headed? What did you like? Pretty straightforward and then when our time together is over, it is with a wave and a "Happy Travels" as we both got off seeking adventure. Oh yes, this method of interacting with my fellow humans suits me just fine!

I had an opportunity to speak with a young man from North Carolina who was traveling from Hakone on the same train as me. He was off to Mt. Koya, where one can stay in a Buddhist monastary and join their rituals while atop a beautiful mountain. I'd have been jealous but frankly, I'd had enough of mountains for the day. For me, it was off to Kyoto: the culture capital of Japan (or so my brochure informs me).

After checking into my hotel, I had enough time to do one thing and so I chose Nijo Castle. Judging from the tourist map, I thought the distance was suitable for a walk. Oh foolish, foolish me. Got lost, got some directions from a stylish young lady whose eyes bugged out very prettily when I mentioned I was going to walk the rest of the way, and an hour later in 90 degree heat I found the castle.

Built by a shogun, Nijo Castle has a heavy wall around it and yet features sumptuous details inside, showcasing not just the military side of the shogun's power, but also his social ranking as well (this was the guy who pretty much kept the emperor as a pet while controling the country, mind you). A remarkable feature of the castle was its nightingale floors. As a ninja-proof security measure, the wooden floors are designed to squeak as someone walks across them. It really did sound like chirping birds, too, as I walked barefoot through the halls, admiring the artwork.

On my way out of the castle, I was stopped by a group of middle schoolers from Hiroshima who had a school assignment of stopping a foreigner and asking them a few simple questions. As Neusbaum luck dictates: I was lucky contestant number 1. The shocking thing was, I saw the same group of students the next day. Japanese Drama logic dictates that Tokyo is the smallest city in the world as the characters keep running into eachother by chance there. It looks like Kyoto follows this tradition. What are the odds?

Tomorrow: I receive my second and final private tour.

Day 5: Hakone

I've decided I like the bus drivers of Hakone. They be taciturn (why use a word when a grunt and a gesture will do?), but they also slow down for old ladies running to catch them, stop for the ones trying to cross the street (effectively halting traffic at the same time), wave to their compatriots and handle hairpin turns in the mountains with casual ease even as I'm clutching the rail of the seat in front of me.

I didn't think I'd get the chance to watch them in action after yesterday's hijincks, but fate would not be denied.

My day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast of soup, rice, fish and lots of other stuff that I'm not entirely sure what it was. I did get to try natto (fermented soy beans) for the first time. I've heard it is an acquired taste and as such it was not one that I have acquired yet.

From there it was back up the mountain to the rail station and across on a funicular, or cable car to the Lake Asashi area. This is where I might have had a chance to see Mt. Fuji, though she was shy today. Still, it was hard to resist the temptation of grabbing the nearest person and pointing off at a mountain and asking "Fuji-san?" It'd be like going to a Phillies game and approaching every white haired man with a paunch and asking "Charlie?"

The cable car took us up over the mountains and reminded me of the Skyline at Hershey Park, only on steroids. It was a very long way down. One of our views, however, was where they collected the hot spring water for the many onsens (baths) in the area. It was kind of depressing looking, a barren landscape spattered with yellow sulfur (which you could also smell) and lots of silver pipes and construction equiptment. Very different from the natural beauty that for the most part surrounded me for the rest of the day.

My Hakone Pass also provided me with free boarding on the cruise that ran the legnth of Lake Asashi. It is built like a corny pirate ship complete with a man dressed up as a pirate offering to take his picture with you (for 1000 Yen of course).

Aside from these memorable journeys, my day was spent on the hiking trails of the area enjoying the scenery and further killing my feet and knees. Lots of fun, but how often can you say you saw a tree and it was pretty? Wordsworth, I am not.

I once read a book that often mentioned the mantra: "Close your eyes, hope for the best, roll the dice." I've amended it during this journey to: "Decide, commit, pray"

My journey back across the mountains hit a snag when one of the cable cars had an accident and they had to shut down that part of the journey. My only way home (aside from a $70 taxi) was to get another bus. It was a long trip, but ended happily with me safe and ready for another enormous dinner.

Tomorrow, I head to Kyoto!

Day 4: Hakone

Fact: A Japanese everyman is kinder than a caucasian business man. When a train is packed and people are standing, the buisness man still needs a seat for his most honored bag (o-kaban-san). Jackass.

My next stop, Hakone, showed me just how badly Tokyo had spoiled me. Luckily, I am blessed with many obaasans (Japanese grandmothers) here. After a train ride to Odawara, against my misgivings, I tried to take the bus to my hotel. Mind you, I haven't taken a bus in years and forgot to signal to the driver my stop. When the lady beside me realized it, she looked at me with such horror. "Kami no Tounosawa!?" she asked, referring to my stop. I spent the next few minutes standing in the aisle of the bus as it took hairpin turns through the mountain roads and got off at the next stop. From there I was golden and arrived at my hotel, a traditional style Japanese inn.

I knew that the Ichinoyu Honkan had public baths, what I didn't realize was that those baths were how one gets clean at these things. I am lucky in that I'd been to a Korean Spa in the DC area about a year ago and once you get the first shock over with and realize that being naked with other strange women is no big thing (really, no one cares) you just go for it. Still, I'd thought that the whole experience was optional, like a hot tub, but my room had neither a toilet nor a private bath.

What it did have was tatami mats, rice papered doors, a futon and a bubbling stream just outside the window. Tatami mats have their own unique smell that took some getting used to. It was somewhat sweet, somewhat grassy and soft beneath my bare feet. I'd taken my shoes off at the inn's entrance and exchanged them for slippers (and exchange those slippers for others when using the bathroom). Keeping track of what shoes I was supposed to wear when took some getting used to.

With some time before dinner, I struck out trying to find the local train station and ride the cable car. The Hakone area, as I've learned is a region of small communities dotted through the Japanese Alps. There is no such thing as a flat road and so the train station was up a mountain and along a series of pathways. For a girl from Maryland's flat Eastern Shore (the highest point is 87 feet above sea level), this took some getting used to and my calves still haven't forgiven me. With my luck, I took the wrong turn and ended up by a botanical garden. Once again, a local helped me out. "Watashi wa doko desu ka?" (Where am I?) has become my phrase of choice and the elderly couple to whom I had asked it were kind enough to offer me a lift in their car to another station. An example of gender relations, the man stumbled through a few words first, his wife waiting patiently before breaking into perfect English with an offer of a ride. Did I just hitchhike?

After a brief ride on the railway, it was back to the inn. Aside from the shoes, however, the biggest change was the food. With both breakfast and dinner provided, I was treated to some real authentic Japanese cuisine. I don't even know half of what I ate but I tried mostly everything. They put so much food in front of me at each meal I felt bad that I couldn't finish it all. It was all so fresh and tasty. At one point, I picked up a morsel with my chopsticks, trying to identify it only to see clusters of suckers. Octopus? Squid? I don't know but I still ate it.

This post is getting rather long so I'll end it here with a final word on Futons. Not so bad, but then again I could have slept on a bed of nails and called it heaven I was so tired.

Up next: My day in Hakone

Day 3: Nikko

Today, I journeyed to Nikko for the day. Nikko is a small town that hosts a large number of very ornate shrines. It was about 2 hours north of Tokyo, so I got to navigate the train system alone. Well, mostly alone. I'd heard that one of the best things about traveling alone was the people you meet as there is no buffer of a companion to stop you from introducing yourself. That was very much true today.

While getting my JR Rail Pass, I stood in line behind a trio from LA. We parted and then met up again later on the final train to Nikko. First, though, was my first bullet train where I was assisted by a retired English teacher. She not only confirmed that I was on the right train, but also led me to the gate of my next one when we departed.

At last, I landed in Nikko! And here I had a choice, I could either take a bus up into the mountain to the shrines, or I could walk through the town. As Robert Frost said, "Two paths diverged in the woods". The LA trio took the bus, while I took the road less travelled. It was hot, it was up hill and the road went on forever. It is the journey, I reminded myself grumpily, not the destination.

First, was the Shinkyo bridge, bright red and spanning the river, it used to be only for the Shogun's use, and even today pedestrians are blocked unless they paid a fee. I preferred to admire it from a far. Across from the bridge was an opportunity to off-road it up some moss covered stone stairs and into a wooded area. Take that Bus Riders! You probably won't even know this is there. I climbed and was rewarded with a deserted shrine that was simply gorgeous. And up again I went to the main shrine: Toshogu.

Toshogu Shrine holds the spirit of Tokugawa Ieyasu, a warlord, chose it for his shrine, starting a family tradition of building shrine-mausoleums here. Ornate to the point of gaudiness, this shrine was also home to something I had not been aware of: the wise monkeys (See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) carved into the stables.

Next was the Futara-san Shrine, dedicated to 3 local mountains. This was much simpler and had more altars to pray at and... fair games? Around one corner were three rope rings to be flung at pegs. A brief internet search has not provided an answer to the reasons of its existence.

My last stop was truly a schlep. Kanmangafuchi Abyss is not easy to find and I found myself wandering through residential streets alone. I had a map and some brief instructions and faith. It's not the destination, it's the journey... screw it, it felt pretty damn good to see the sign for the abyss. Rapids to the right of me and a string of jizo statues to the left.

Jizo are child-like statues usually wearing red bibs and they are guardians of a sort. Legend has it no one knows how many statues are in this line as the numbers always change. I'm sure the bus riders would have loved to see it, if they weren't too busy propping their soft feet and enjoying dry t-shirts.

My trip back to the station had me stopping at Hippari Dako, a hole in the wall place that specializes in Yakitori (grilled chicken on a stick). It is a restaurant immortalized in Lonely Planet and indeed the other diners were all Lonely Planet book holders, one from Germany and two from Spain. The walls were covered in notes from previous diners and the food was delicious. Yakitori, rice and noodles. Good thing there's no such thing as calories in Japan!

Alas, my trip had come to an end and so I returned to the train station and ended up traveling with the Spanish duo. They were finishing their journey just as I am starting mine. They'd even been to the Ghibli Museum! We exchanged favorite titles and helped each other navigate the train system. Then, as always, we parted ways with a quick "happy travels!"

Now, with beer in hand, I prepare for tomorrow and my trip to Hakone. Oh yes, I've taken the road less traveled and that has make all the difference.

Day 2: Tour of Tokyo

Gah! Pictures don't want to upload. I'll try to get something fixed soon...

Busy day started early with a 5AM wakeup. Ran into a German couple on the elevator and spoke some embarassingly bad Deutsch with them. After breakfast, I was met by my guide for the day, a sweet lady named Tomoko Furakawa.

Tomoko-san was very nice, supremely efficient and surprisingly a bit of a rebel. She'd wave me across corded barriers and when a policeman asked us to move, she whispered, "Let's stay unless he asks us again." I think she was determined to create a great experience, and she succeeded.

We began with a short walk to Senso-ji Temple, which is a very large, well known buddhist temple dedicated to the Kannon, the goddess of Mercy. We passed by a pair of statues of a god of thunder and another of wind. Another pair at another gate were matched in that one had his mouth open, beginning to say a word, while the other's mouth was closed, representing the end of the word. Sort of an Alpha and Omega-style thing.

We threw 5-yen coins into the box and said a prayer before visiting a cauldron of incense which had purifying and healing properties. At the front gate, was an enormous red lantern.

We then continued to a cruise down the Sumida River. While interesting, it was not exactly picturesque. During the journey, I got to meet the family in front of me. The smallest boy would not stop staring, so we made friends. At his mother's prompting, the older boy got to practice his English (mainly asking me if I liked this food or that food).

After the cruise, we went to the Hama-rikyu Gardens, where I learned a great deal about the makings of a Japanese garden. At the tea house situated in the center of the pond, we enjoyed some iced green tea. Tomoko-san's mother taught tea ceremonies and so she explained some of the meanings behind the rituals. The tea itself was quite bitter and served with a small sweet. The two tastes melded quite nicely. While leaving, Tomoko-san pointed out a statue of a frog. The Japanese word for frog is very similar to the word for "return", so the frog means happy returns both returning home and returning back to the tea house. I've learned that everything means something here. Except for when it doesn't. Sometimes the angle of a path is chosen as a lucky number, and other times a mysterious bundle is just a weight to keep the rug in place.

After the gardens, we had a tasty tempura lunch. A tray of different salts was included in this, including one that had wasabi. Yum!

We then made our way back to Asakusa (where I am staying) and went to a Yabusame exhibition. Men in period costume rode horses down a shoot while shooting arrows at targets. Quite amazing! But also so hot! We did not stay long, but I did get a few nice pictures.

From there, we traveled to Meiji Shrine, where the Meiji emperor and his wife are enshrined. From the moment we stepped onto the grounds, it was like leaving the city behind. Trees and paths created a feeling of being in a forest as we passed under tori gates (the largest in the country) to reach the sprawling complex. It is a Shinto shrine and so there is an emphasis on nature and the architecture emphasizes this be having a great deal of open space and seemingly little boundary between the surrounding trees and the shrine itself. We were lucky in that a wedding had just let out and so I got to witness a traditional bride and groom proceeding from one building to another. Such a solemn affair with most attendees wearing black.

Our last stop was at the fashionista paradise of the Harajuku district. Crazy costumes and teenagers abound on these streets. Tomoko-san took me into a Goth-loli shop (a mixture of gothic and lolita style clothing) which also played j-pop versions of Disney songs. We ended our journey by going to a photo booth where you could take silly pictures and edit them.

I saw so much today, really got a smattering of the different sides of Tokyo. As every guidebook I've read seems to say: Japan may be influenced by the outside, but it really makes every new thing distinctly its own.

Tomorrow, I am on my own and headed to Nikko.

Day 1: Travel to Tokyo

A shower has never felt so good! And during the whole thing, Henry Higgin's song popped into my head... "I did it. I did it. I really, really did it!" I've been awake for about 36 hours straight and bed is definitely in the near future.

Everything went swimmingly until I hit LAX. I hate that airport. So confusing. No signs. The only boon is the friendly staff who were very sweet to point me onto the right track. Then I was on Singapore Airlines and headed for Tokyo.

Singapore Airlines has been synonymous with heaven to me ever since I flew with them when I was 13. People say that they treat economy class like business class and they still do. I had a row to myself, my own TV with great movies, free wine and a blanket. When I spilled my second glass of wine down the back of the chair in front of me, I considered that a sign to behave...

Best of all, one of the movies was Hotaru (a continuation of a TV series called Hotaru no Hikari, or Glow of the Firefly), which is about a 28 year old woman who happens to be a himono onna (dried fish lady). At work she is all professionalism, but when she's home the sweatpants come out, her hair goes up and a beer is cracked on the porch. She's also a huge dork. In other words, it's a Japanese version of me. I hadn't seen the movie yet so that was a good time.

The flight, however was long and I was surrounded by babies that were mostly, blessedly quiet. I probably looked like a zombie coming off that plane and the customs officials had mercy and didn't ask too many questions. I can't help but feel that this country is a well-oiled machine and I am a wrench thrown into the gears... My plan is to smile and apologize. A lot.

Even after leaving the airport (familiar ground) I'm not afraid. I might be too tired to be afraid, yet.

Made it to the train by myself and then translated the word "Taxi" before seeing the English translation beneath it. Got a taxi (and communicated with the driver!) and made it to my room. It's small, reminds me of my room at Lancaster University. Only three buttons on the toilet, so I think I've got this one down.

No pictures today, maybe tomorrow when I tour Tokyo.

Day -1: The Hotel

I'm spending the night at an airport hotel. I've checked the closet and under the bed and repacked my bag. Then I turned on the TV to see three words. Honey. Boo. Boo. 30 minutes later, I remembered to shut my mouth. Two episodes later, I still don't think I understand it. This is what I'm leaving behind?

Also, I did finish my Ghibli-a-thon, I just didn't have the time to type lengthy reviews. I watched everything except Whisper of the Heart, The Cat Returns, Princess Mononoke and Grave of Fireflies (which I refused to rewatch anyways as it makes me cry). All of them were worth watching except for Tales From Earthsea which was good by anime standards, but very lacking by Ghibli standards. Definitely the weakest of the bunch. Can't wait to see the museum!

Ghibli-a-thon 2: Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind

Welcome to part 2 of the Ghibli-a-thon! Today's film is 1984's Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind.

Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind takes place in a post-apocalyptic world where most of the planet is covered in toxic forests where enormous bugs live. Humans eke out a living where they can, but the forests are spreading and destroying settlements. And the kingdoms aren't exactly peaceful toward each other, either.

Princess Nausicaa lives in a tiny kingdom on the coast and she has learned the ways of the jungle. She lives her days pretty idyllically until another kingdom's airship crashes, bringing the kingdom of Tolmekia to her doorstop. The main conflicts rise around not defeating the insects, but in finding peace with both human and nonhuman neighbors.

It is definitely a predecessor of future Ghibli works: featuring a strong, youthful heroine at the center and themes of environmentalism and living in peace with nature. And while there are "bad guys", they are not quite so cartoonishly flat as Lupin's.

Nausicaa as a main character was just barely not annoying. Somehow she manages to be inspiring, rather than uber-perfect. Perhaps because by the climax she finally has a problem that is worthy of her? Ugly hats aside, the girl is true to her beliefs and never experiences a moment of doubt. In fact I'd even go so far as to say she's a Christ figure. I personally like my heroes to falter a little before finding their way in the world (a reason why future Ghibli films touch me much more deeply). Nausicaa has one moment where she gives into her rage, but it is brief and she snaps right back to her supergirl tactics.

Luckily, the world Nausicaa inhabits is utterly real in terms of warring kingdoms, violence and things just generally not working out the way a proper Disney-esque movie events should. Important people die. There are consequences to actions. Bed-ridden old men are shot for their political value and entire towns are considered equal payment for victory against a war-like neighbor.

The animation showed its age, especially with the characters. Their costumes were either bland or better left forgotten (especially the headgear). The setting, however, was gorgeously textured. The flight sequences are great, though I know Ghibli's work on this will only get better. In Nausicaa, one person on a glider is the same as two, with no effects on balance or speed.

The music is far better than Lupin's. The childlike main tune is downright haunting and the electronic instrument use is kept to a minimum. The dub is not much to write home about. If you listen closely, you can see where the script has marks for emphasis on certain words and syllables. Still if Patrick Stewart is in it, you can bet my toes are curling in delight. Early works by Alison Lohman and Shia Labeouf are also featured and recognizable, while Uma Thurman seems to be having some fun as Kushana, the princess of a rival kingdom who provides a direct comparison with Nausicaa (what makes a good ruler and what makes a bad one).

I'd love to see where Kushana comes from, what made her the vicious (and yet somehow aching for comanionship) sort of woman that she's become. The manga are on order from a local library so hopefully I will find out, though I dread to discover the fate of Teto, the squirell-fox (who I've associated with Ampersand, the fantastic animal companion of Y: The Last Man: highly recommended and suitably post-apocalyptic to mention here). I swear if the manga makes me cry like Y: The Last Man did I will not be pleased....

Seriously How cute is this?

The pace of the story tends to meander, aside from Nausicaa's urgency. This is also where the electronic soundtrack does no one favors. And really, this is not a show for children. I'd love to hear what my little cousins think of it, if they'd really understand the relationships between kingdoms and how Nausicaa inspires such loyalty in her subjects.

I look forward to comparing this to Princess Mononoke (which I remember as not particularly enjoying). Up next, though, is Laputa: Castle in the Sky, which is officially the first Ghibli Film.

Ghibli-a-thon 1: Lupin III: The Castle of Cagliostro

To prepare for my upcoming trip to Japan (and visit to the Studio Ghibli Museum), I've decided to undertake a marathon of Ghibli/Miyazaki films. While I've seen a lot of them, there are many that I just never got around to viewing. So, I'll be taking a look at what's readily available and I'll try to do it in chronological order. First up, Lupin III: The Castle of Cagliostro.

The Castle of Cagliostro was released in 1979. While not a Studio Ghibli film, it was written and directed by Hayao Miyazaki and I wanted to take a look at some of his earlier works.

Lupin III is an iconic anime character who got his start in a manga by Monkey Punch. He is a gentleman thief and the subject of several TV series and movies. Please note that I am not familiar with Lupin and so can only enjoy it as it is, out of context from other Lupin works. The film is currently available at Hulu

Our film begins at the end of a heist. (In)famous thief, Lupin III and his cohort Diasuke Jigen are running out of a casino in Monte Carlo, their bags bursting with bills and the police in hot pursuit. Almost immediately, Lupin realizes that the bills are forgeries. So, they decide to head to Cagliostro to investigate the origins of the counterfeited money. While there, they find a princess in dire need of rescue from the evil Count of Cagliostro (who is behind the counterfeiting).

All in all, I consider the Castle of Cagliostro to be a fun caper. Lupin is a fun character to helm the adventure with some help from his friends and his frenemy, Inspector Koichi Zunigata. Oh, and the completely awesome Fujiko Mine. The extra characters, mainly the count and the princess, are not entirely original and I'd say the weakest point in the movie for me is the princess.

First of all, her name is Clarisse. The first thing I think of when I hear that name is Silence of the Lambs.

"Hello Clarice"

Clarisse is the Fanny Price to Fujiko's Elizabeth Bennett (preferably the version from Pride and Prejudice and Zombies. Where Clarisse uses a chair to try to break a window, Fujiko opts for a grenade. So Clarisse = boring in my opinion. While her would-be suitor is cartoonishly bad.

The film escalates to a rousing climax, complete with a battle in a clock tower that puts me in the mood for The Great Mouse Detective, a cringe-worthy end to the villain and an interesting twist in the finale.

The animation shows its age, but isn't overly unpleasant and the dub was decent. I found the actual storyline to be well constructed and tightly edited. Up next: Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind.