Day 5: Hakone

I've decided I like the bus drivers of Hakone. They be taciturn (why use a word when a grunt and a gesture will do?), but they also slow down for old ladies running to catch them, stop for the ones trying to cross the street (effectively halting traffic at the same time), wave to their compatriots and handle hairpin turns in the mountains with casual ease even as I'm clutching the rail of the seat in front of me.

I didn't think I'd get the chance to watch them in action after yesterday's hijincks, but fate would not be denied.

My day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast of soup, rice, fish and lots of other stuff that I'm not entirely sure what it was. I did get to try natto (fermented soy beans) for the first time. I've heard it is an acquired taste and as such it was not one that I have acquired yet.

From there it was back up the mountain to the rail station and across on a funicular, or cable car to the Lake Asashi area. This is where I might have had a chance to see Mt. Fuji, though she was shy today. Still, it was hard to resist the temptation of grabbing the nearest person and pointing off at a mountain and asking "Fuji-san?" It'd be like going to a Phillies game and approaching every white haired man with a paunch and asking "Charlie?"

The cable car took us up over the mountains and reminded me of the Skyline at Hershey Park, only on steroids. It was a very long way down. One of our views, however, was where they collected the hot spring water for the many onsens (baths) in the area. It was kind of depressing looking, a barren landscape spattered with yellow sulfur (which you could also smell) and lots of silver pipes and construction equiptment. Very different from the natural beauty that for the most part surrounded me for the rest of the day.

My Hakone Pass also provided me with free boarding on the cruise that ran the legnth of Lake Asashi. It is built like a corny pirate ship complete with a man dressed up as a pirate offering to take his picture with you (for 1000 Yen of course).

Aside from these memorable journeys, my day was spent on the hiking trails of the area enjoying the scenery and further killing my feet and knees. Lots of fun, but how often can you say you saw a tree and it was pretty? Wordsworth, I am not.

I once read a book that often mentioned the mantra: "Close your eyes, hope for the best, roll the dice." I've amended it during this journey to: "Decide, commit, pray"

My journey back across the mountains hit a snag when one of the cable cars had an accident and they had to shut down that part of the journey. My only way home (aside from a $70 taxi) was to get another bus. It was a long trip, but ended happily with me safe and ready for another enormous dinner.

Tomorrow, I head to Kyoto!

Day 4: Hakone

Fact: A Japanese everyman is kinder than a caucasian business man. When a train is packed and people are standing, the buisness man still needs a seat for his most honored bag (o-kaban-san). Jackass.

My next stop, Hakone, showed me just how badly Tokyo had spoiled me. Luckily, I am blessed with many obaasans (Japanese grandmothers) here. After a train ride to Odawara, against my misgivings, I tried to take the bus to my hotel. Mind you, I haven't taken a bus in years and forgot to signal to the driver my stop. When the lady beside me realized it, she looked at me with such horror. "Kami no Tounosawa!?" she asked, referring to my stop. I spent the next few minutes standing in the aisle of the bus as it took hairpin turns through the mountain roads and got off at the next stop. From there I was golden and arrived at my hotel, a traditional style Japanese inn.

I knew that the Ichinoyu Honkan had public baths, what I didn't realize was that those baths were how one gets clean at these things. I am lucky in that I'd been to a Korean Spa in the DC area about a year ago and once you get the first shock over with and realize that being naked with other strange women is no big thing (really, no one cares) you just go for it. Still, I'd thought that the whole experience was optional, like a hot tub, but my room had neither a toilet nor a private bath.

What it did have was tatami mats, rice papered doors, a futon and a bubbling stream just outside the window. Tatami mats have their own unique smell that took some getting used to. It was somewhat sweet, somewhat grassy and soft beneath my bare feet. I'd taken my shoes off at the inn's entrance and exchanged them for slippers (and exchange those slippers for others when using the bathroom). Keeping track of what shoes I was supposed to wear when took some getting used to.

With some time before dinner, I struck out trying to find the local train station and ride the cable car. The Hakone area, as I've learned is a region of small communities dotted through the Japanese Alps. There is no such thing as a flat road and so the train station was up a mountain and along a series of pathways. For a girl from Maryland's flat Eastern Shore (the highest point is 87 feet above sea level), this took some getting used to and my calves still haven't forgiven me. With my luck, I took the wrong turn and ended up by a botanical garden. Once again, a local helped me out. "Watashi wa doko desu ka?" (Where am I?) has become my phrase of choice and the elderly couple to whom I had asked it were kind enough to offer me a lift in their car to another station. An example of gender relations, the man stumbled through a few words first, his wife waiting patiently before breaking into perfect English with an offer of a ride. Did I just hitchhike?

After a brief ride on the railway, it was back to the inn. Aside from the shoes, however, the biggest change was the food. With both breakfast and dinner provided, I was treated to some real authentic Japanese cuisine. I don't even know half of what I ate but I tried mostly everything. They put so much food in front of me at each meal I felt bad that I couldn't finish it all. It was all so fresh and tasty. At one point, I picked up a morsel with my chopsticks, trying to identify it only to see clusters of suckers. Octopus? Squid? I don't know but I still ate it.

This post is getting rather long so I'll end it here with a final word on Futons. Not so bad, but then again I could have slept on a bed of nails and called it heaven I was so tired.

Up next: My day in Hakone

Day 3: Nikko

Today, I journeyed to Nikko for the day. Nikko is a small town that hosts a large number of very ornate shrines. It was about 2 hours north of Tokyo, so I got to navigate the train system alone. Well, mostly alone. I'd heard that one of the best things about traveling alone was the people you meet as there is no buffer of a companion to stop you from introducing yourself. That was very much true today.

While getting my JR Rail Pass, I stood in line behind a trio from LA. We parted and then met up again later on the final train to Nikko. First, though, was my first bullet train where I was assisted by a retired English teacher. She not only confirmed that I was on the right train, but also led me to the gate of my next one when we departed.

At last, I landed in Nikko! And here I had a choice, I could either take a bus up into the mountain to the shrines, or I could walk through the town. As Robert Frost said, "Two paths diverged in the woods". The LA trio took the bus, while I took the road less travelled. It was hot, it was up hill and the road went on forever. It is the journey, I reminded myself grumpily, not the destination.

First, was the Shinkyo bridge, bright red and spanning the river, it used to be only for the Shogun's use, and even today pedestrians are blocked unless they paid a fee. I preferred to admire it from a far. Across from the bridge was an opportunity to off-road it up some moss covered stone stairs and into a wooded area. Take that Bus Riders! You probably won't even know this is there. I climbed and was rewarded with a deserted shrine that was simply gorgeous. And up again I went to the main shrine: Toshogu.

Toshogu Shrine holds the spirit of Tokugawa Ieyasu, a warlord, chose it for his shrine, starting a family tradition of building shrine-mausoleums here. Ornate to the point of gaudiness, this shrine was also home to something I had not been aware of: the wise monkeys (See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) carved into the stables.

Next was the Futara-san Shrine, dedicated to 3 local mountains. This was much simpler and had more altars to pray at and... fair games? Around one corner were three rope rings to be flung at pegs. A brief internet search has not provided an answer to the reasons of its existence.

My last stop was truly a schlep. Kanmangafuchi Abyss is not easy to find and I found myself wandering through residential streets alone. I had a map and some brief instructions and faith. It's not the destination, it's the journey... screw it, it felt pretty damn good to see the sign for the abyss. Rapids to the right of me and a string of jizo statues to the left.

Jizo are child-like statues usually wearing red bibs and they are guardians of a sort. Legend has it no one knows how many statues are in this line as the numbers always change. I'm sure the bus riders would have loved to see it, if they weren't too busy propping their soft feet and enjoying dry t-shirts.

My trip back to the station had me stopping at Hippari Dako, a hole in the wall place that specializes in Yakitori (grilled chicken on a stick). It is a restaurant immortalized in Lonely Planet and indeed the other diners were all Lonely Planet book holders, one from Germany and two from Spain. The walls were covered in notes from previous diners and the food was delicious. Yakitori, rice and noodles. Good thing there's no such thing as calories in Japan!

Alas, my trip had come to an end and so I returned to the train station and ended up traveling with the Spanish duo. They were finishing their journey just as I am starting mine. They'd even been to the Ghibli Museum! We exchanged favorite titles and helped each other navigate the train system. Then, as always, we parted ways with a quick "happy travels!"

Now, with beer in hand, I prepare for tomorrow and my trip to Hakone. Oh yes, I've taken the road less traveled and that has make all the difference.

Day 2: Tour of Tokyo

Gah! Pictures don't want to upload. I'll try to get something fixed soon...

Busy day started early with a 5AM wakeup. Ran into a German couple on the elevator and spoke some embarassingly bad Deutsch with them. After breakfast, I was met by my guide for the day, a sweet lady named Tomoko Furakawa.

Tomoko-san was very nice, supremely efficient and surprisingly a bit of a rebel. She'd wave me across corded barriers and when a policeman asked us to move, she whispered, "Let's stay unless he asks us again." I think she was determined to create a great experience, and she succeeded.

We began with a short walk to Senso-ji Temple, which is a very large, well known buddhist temple dedicated to the Kannon, the goddess of Mercy. We passed by a pair of statues of a god of thunder and another of wind. Another pair at another gate were matched in that one had his mouth open, beginning to say a word, while the other's mouth was closed, representing the end of the word. Sort of an Alpha and Omega-style thing.

We threw 5-yen coins into the box and said a prayer before visiting a cauldron of incense which had purifying and healing properties. At the front gate, was an enormous red lantern.

We then continued to a cruise down the Sumida River. While interesting, it was not exactly picturesque. During the journey, I got to meet the family in front of me. The smallest boy would not stop staring, so we made friends. At his mother's prompting, the older boy got to practice his English (mainly asking me if I liked this food or that food).

After the cruise, we went to the Hama-rikyu Gardens, where I learned a great deal about the makings of a Japanese garden. At the tea house situated in the center of the pond, we enjoyed some iced green tea. Tomoko-san's mother taught tea ceremonies and so she explained some of the meanings behind the rituals. The tea itself was quite bitter and served with a small sweet. The two tastes melded quite nicely. While leaving, Tomoko-san pointed out a statue of a frog. The Japanese word for frog is very similar to the word for "return", so the frog means happy returns both returning home and returning back to the tea house. I've learned that everything means something here. Except for when it doesn't. Sometimes the angle of a path is chosen as a lucky number, and other times a mysterious bundle is just a weight to keep the rug in place.

After the gardens, we had a tasty tempura lunch. A tray of different salts was included in this, including one that had wasabi. Yum!

We then made our way back to Asakusa (where I am staying) and went to a Yabusame exhibition. Men in period costume rode horses down a shoot while shooting arrows at targets. Quite amazing! But also so hot! We did not stay long, but I did get a few nice pictures.

From there, we traveled to Meiji Shrine, where the Meiji emperor and his wife are enshrined. From the moment we stepped onto the grounds, it was like leaving the city behind. Trees and paths created a feeling of being in a forest as we passed under tori gates (the largest in the country) to reach the sprawling complex. It is a Shinto shrine and so there is an emphasis on nature and the architecture emphasizes this be having a great deal of open space and seemingly little boundary between the surrounding trees and the shrine itself. We were lucky in that a wedding had just let out and so I got to witness a traditional bride and groom proceeding from one building to another. Such a solemn affair with most attendees wearing black.

Our last stop was at the fashionista paradise of the Harajuku district. Crazy costumes and teenagers abound on these streets. Tomoko-san took me into a Goth-loli shop (a mixture of gothic and lolita style clothing) which also played j-pop versions of Disney songs. We ended our journey by going to a photo booth where you could take silly pictures and edit them.

I saw so much today, really got a smattering of the different sides of Tokyo. As every guidebook I've read seems to say: Japan may be influenced by the outside, but it really makes every new thing distinctly its own.

Tomorrow, I am on my own and headed to Nikko.

Day 1: Travel to Tokyo

A shower has never felt so good! And during the whole thing, Henry Higgin's song popped into my head... "I did it. I did it. I really, really did it!" I've been awake for about 36 hours straight and bed is definitely in the near future.

Everything went swimmingly until I hit LAX. I hate that airport. So confusing. No signs. The only boon is the friendly staff who were very sweet to point me onto the right track. Then I was on Singapore Airlines and headed for Tokyo.

Singapore Airlines has been synonymous with heaven to me ever since I flew with them when I was 13. People say that they treat economy class like business class and they still do. I had a row to myself, my own TV with great movies, free wine and a blanket. When I spilled my second glass of wine down the back of the chair in front of me, I considered that a sign to behave...

Best of all, one of the movies was Hotaru (a continuation of a TV series called Hotaru no Hikari, or Glow of the Firefly), which is about a 28 year old woman who happens to be a himono onna (dried fish lady). At work she is all professionalism, but when she's home the sweatpants come out, her hair goes up and a beer is cracked on the porch. She's also a huge dork. In other words, it's a Japanese version of me. I hadn't seen the movie yet so that was a good time.

The flight, however was long and I was surrounded by babies that were mostly, blessedly quiet. I probably looked like a zombie coming off that plane and the customs officials had mercy and didn't ask too many questions. I can't help but feel that this country is a well-oiled machine and I am a wrench thrown into the gears... My plan is to smile and apologize. A lot.

Even after leaving the airport (familiar ground) I'm not afraid. I might be too tired to be afraid, yet.

Made it to the train by myself and then translated the word "Taxi" before seeing the English translation beneath it. Got a taxi (and communicated with the driver!) and made it to my room. It's small, reminds me of my room at Lancaster University. Only three buttons on the toilet, so I think I've got this one down.

No pictures today, maybe tomorrow when I tour Tokyo.

Day -1: The Hotel

I'm spending the night at an airport hotel. I've checked the closet and under the bed and repacked my bag. Then I turned on the TV to see three words. Honey. Boo. Boo. 30 minutes later, I remembered to shut my mouth. Two episodes later, I still don't think I understand it. This is what I'm leaving behind?

Also, I did finish my Ghibli-a-thon, I just didn't have the time to type lengthy reviews. I watched everything except Whisper of the Heart, The Cat Returns, Princess Mononoke and Grave of Fireflies (which I refused to rewatch anyways as it makes me cry). All of them were worth watching except for Tales From Earthsea which was good by anime standards, but very lacking by Ghibli standards. Definitely the weakest of the bunch. Can't wait to see the museum!

Ghibli-a-thon 2: Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind

Welcome to part 2 of the Ghibli-a-thon! Today's film is 1984's Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind.

Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind takes place in a post-apocalyptic world where most of the planet is covered in toxic forests where enormous bugs live. Humans eke out a living where they can, but the forests are spreading and destroying settlements. And the kingdoms aren't exactly peaceful toward each other, either.

Princess Nausicaa lives in a tiny kingdom on the coast and she has learned the ways of the jungle. She lives her days pretty idyllically until another kingdom's airship crashes, bringing the kingdom of Tolmekia to her doorstop. The main conflicts rise around not defeating the insects, but in finding peace with both human and nonhuman neighbors.

It is definitely a predecessor of future Ghibli works: featuring a strong, youthful heroine at the center and themes of environmentalism and living in peace with nature. And while there are "bad guys", they are not quite so cartoonishly flat as Lupin's.

Nausicaa as a main character was just barely not annoying. Somehow she manages to be inspiring, rather than uber-perfect. Perhaps because by the climax she finally has a problem that is worthy of her? Ugly hats aside, the girl is true to her beliefs and never experiences a moment of doubt. In fact I'd even go so far as to say she's a Christ figure. I personally like my heroes to falter a little before finding their way in the world (a reason why future Ghibli films touch me much more deeply). Nausicaa has one moment where she gives into her rage, but it is brief and she snaps right back to her supergirl tactics.

Luckily, the world Nausicaa inhabits is utterly real in terms of warring kingdoms, violence and things just generally not working out the way a proper Disney-esque movie events should. Important people die. There are consequences to actions. Bed-ridden old men are shot for their political value and entire towns are considered equal payment for victory against a war-like neighbor.

The animation showed its age, especially with the characters. Their costumes were either bland or better left forgotten (especially the headgear). The setting, however, was gorgeously textured. The flight sequences are great, though I know Ghibli's work on this will only get better. In Nausicaa, one person on a glider is the same as two, with no effects on balance or speed.

The music is far better than Lupin's. The childlike main tune is downright haunting and the electronic instrument use is kept to a minimum. The dub is not much to write home about. If you listen closely, you can see where the script has marks for emphasis on certain words and syllables. Still if Patrick Stewart is in it, you can bet my toes are curling in delight. Early works by Alison Lohman and Shia Labeouf are also featured and recognizable, while Uma Thurman seems to be having some fun as Kushana, the princess of a rival kingdom who provides a direct comparison with Nausicaa (what makes a good ruler and what makes a bad one).

I'd love to see where Kushana comes from, what made her the vicious (and yet somehow aching for comanionship) sort of woman that she's become. The manga are on order from a local library so hopefully I will find out, though I dread to discover the fate of Teto, the squirell-fox (who I've associated with Ampersand, the fantastic animal companion of Y: The Last Man: highly recommended and suitably post-apocalyptic to mention here). I swear if the manga makes me cry like Y: The Last Man did I will not be pleased....

Seriously How cute is this?

The pace of the story tends to meander, aside from Nausicaa's urgency. This is also where the electronic soundtrack does no one favors. And really, this is not a show for children. I'd love to hear what my little cousins think of it, if they'd really understand the relationships between kingdoms and how Nausicaa inspires such loyalty in her subjects.

I look forward to comparing this to Princess Mononoke (which I remember as not particularly enjoying). Up next, though, is Laputa: Castle in the Sky, which is officially the first Ghibli Film.